Nazare: Love and pain on the world's biggest wave

 

Since it was first surfed, a little over a decade ago, the Portuguese town of Nazare has become the 

undisputed home of the world's biggest wave

As he looks out from his balcony, over slumped, drying wetsuits, Andrew Cotton can see it all.

The stretch of sand, the salt haze, a spike of cliff and a scarlet lighthouse.

Most of all, Cotton can see Nazare's waves. They are small today, relatively at least, but there is still a backdrop of bubbling white water and churning white noise.

When the swell is right and the surf is up, it is a different story on a different scale.

Nazare, a small town 60 miles north of Lisbon, is where towering waves - some the height of 10-storey buildings - crash to shore.

For generations of local fishermen, those conditions have meant danger and death. For Cotton they are a way of life and a living.

"Weirdly, somehow, I have turned it into a job, so when it is big, you go out there," he says.

"You go out there all day and do what you need to do."

When it is one of those days, Cotton doesn't need to even look. When the biggest, most lucrative wave in the world arrives, he knows as soon as he wakes, before his eyes open.

"Living here, I know how big the waves are by how much the windows are rattling," he adds.

"It can really be something else, you know? The ocean can be scary when there are no waves. When here is big… it can be petrifying."

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