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As he looks out from his balcony, over slumped, drying
wetsuits, Andrew Cotton can see it all.
The stretch of sand, the salt haze, a spike of cliff and a
scarlet lighthouse.
Most of all, Cotton can see Nazare's waves. They are small
today, relatively at least, but there is still a backdrop of bubbling white
water and churning white noise.
When the swell is right and the surf is up, it is a
different story on a different scale.
Nazare, a small town 60 miles north of Lisbon, is where
towering waves - some the height of 10-storey buildings - crash to shore.
For generations of local fishermen, those conditions have
meant danger and death. For Cotton they are a way of life and a living.
"Weirdly, somehow, I have turned it into a job, so when
it is big, you go out there," he says.
"You go out there all day and do what you need to
do."
When it is one of those days, Cotton doesn't need to even
look. When the biggest, most lucrative wave in the world arrives, he knows as
soon as he wakes, before his eyes open.
"Living here, I know how big the waves are by how much
the windows are rattling," he adds.
"It can really be something else, you know? The ocean
can be scary when there are no waves. When here is big… it can be petrifying."
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